Sarah Murray recalls the first time she saw an artificial model in fashion. It was 2023, and a beautiful young woman of color wore a Levi’s denim overall dress. Murray, a commercial model herself, said it made her feel sad and exhausted. The iconic denim company had teamed up with the AI studio Lalaland.ai to create “diverse” digital fashion models for more inclusive ads. For an industry that has failed for years to employ diverse human models, the backlash was swift, with critics calling the decision “artificial diversity.”
“Modeling as a profession is already challenging enough without having to compete with new digital standards of perfection that can be achieved with AI,” Murray said.
Two years later, her worries have compounded. Brands continue to experiment with AI-generated models, frustrating many in fashion. The latest uproar came after Vogue’s July print edition featured a Guess ad with a model who embodied North American beauty standards—thin yet voluptuous, with glossy blond hair and pouty rose lips. The catch? She was AI-generated. The internet buzzed for days, largely because the appearance of an AI model in Vogue, the industry’s authority on style, signaled a troubling shift.
Vogue clarified that the model appeared in an advertisement, not an editorial spread, and met its advertising standards. But to many, the distinction didn’t matter. The incident raised questions about the future of human talent in fashion—models, photographers, stylists, and set designers—as AI threatens to replace them.
Sinead Bovell, a model and founder of WAYE, noted that “e-commerce models” are most at risk. These models, who pose for ads and online product displays, represent the bulk of financial stability for many in the industry. Unlike high-fashion models, whose striking looks dominate runways and editorials, e-commerce models are relatable—making them easier to replicate with AI.
Paul Mouginot, an art technologist, explained that working with live models is expensive, especially for brands that need countless images of different garments. AI allows brands to place products on photorealistic virtual models in coherent settings, drastically cutting costs. Some retailers, like Veepee, have used virtual mannequins for years, while others, including H&M, Mango, and Calvin Klein, have recently adopted AI models.
Amy Odell, a fashion writer, put it simply: “It’s just so much cheaper for brands to use AI models now. They need a lot of content, and if they can save money, they will.”
PJ Pereira, co-founder of AI ad firm Silverside AI, said the shift is driven by scale. Social media and e-commerce demand hundreds—or even hundreds of thousands—of content pieces, far beyond the traditional four major campaigns per year. “There’s no way to scale without AI,” he said.
Murray understands the cost benefits but argues that brands don’t need AI to supplement talent when countless models are eager for work. She fears the rise of AI will disproportionately impact diverse models, who already struggle for representation. Bovell calls this “robot cultural appropriation,” where brands generate diverse identities without hiring real people.
Some, like former model Sara Ziff, are pushing for legal protections. The Fashion Workers Act would require brands to obtain consent and compensate models for digital replicas. Mouginot sees potential in models licensing their likenesses, allowing them to appear in multiple shoots simultaneously. But he acknowledges that every AI avatar hired means fewer opportunities for human models.
Bovell advises models to build personal brands and diversify their income streams. “AI will never have a unique human story,” she said.
Meanwhile, startups like Artcare are refining AI-generated models to include imperfections and distinctive traits. CEO Sandrine Decorde argues that ethical concerns, particularly around child modeling, make AI a viable alternative. But she criticizes the homogeneity of many AI models, noting that brands need distinctive, not generic, faces.
Pereira warns that without intentional diversity in AI training, biases will persist. “You have to prompt for a wide range of appearances,” he said.
Claudia Wagner, founder of modeling platform Ubooker, believes AI in fashion is still experimental. The Guess ad, she said, felt like a publicity stunt rather than meaningful innovation. Pereira agrees but notes that despite backlash, AI-driven content often performs well commercially.
Luxury brands remain cautious, with many avoiding fully AI-generated models. But Mouginot predicts some platforms may eventually abandon human models altogether. Still, he believes people crave human connection and imperfection—qualities AI struggles to replicate.
Bovell wonders if Vogue’s inclusion of an AI model was a test. If the magazine embraces AI editorially, it could legitimize the trend. “What Vogue does matters,” Odell said. “If they feature AI models, the industry will follow.”
For now, the future of AI in fashion remains uncertain—but its impact is already being felt.