Confession time: my household owns two cars, one with leather and one with “leather.” The former feels amazing, while the latter is not fooling anyone. Based on the samples currently on my desk, leather alternatives do not have to feel so artificial or be so harsh on the environment.
Most fake leathers are made using plastics derived from fossil fuels. However, the samples from Uncaged Innovations are made mostly using grains, including wheat, soy, and corn. The result feels remarkably like a variety of real animal leathers. One sample even smelled like the genuine article.
According to co-founder and CEO Stephanie Downs, leather is not just one material. There are a thousand types from different animals, with different thicknesses and tanning processes. The company had to develop something that could be easily customizable.
Uncaged is now working with Hyundai’s Cradle division to refine its material for automotive use. The goal is to create a durable, animal- and climate-friendly material that can replace leather in cars and trucks. The startup says its material’s carbon footprint is 95% lower than that of traditional leather. Last month, the company also announced a partnership with Jaguar Land Rover.
Leather alternatives are almost as old as the automotive industry itself, with early Ford Model T cars using primitive faux leather as early as 1913. The quality has improved over the years, but many alternatives still lack the same feel as the genuine article.
The startup’s materials are currently used in vegan-friendly handbags and watch straps. While fashion companies are high-profile customers, automakers are arguably bigger targets. Each leather interior can consume anywhere from two to fourteen cowhides, depending on the interior coverage and the automaker’s quality standards. Since cows live outdoors, their skin is often scarred from bug bites or barbed wire fences. These blemishes mean a significant portion of leather is often wasted. Because Uncaged’s material is made in a factory, it is consistent in a way that cowhides are not.
Compared with traditional leather, Uncaged’s product sits in the mid-market. Small orders sell for less than $10 per square foot, and large orders might cost half as much. This provides not only a savings for the environment but also for the bottom line.
Uncaged is currently running tests for a range of automakers. Heat resistance is the biggest hurdle, though the company is making progress. One automotive company requires the material to withstand 95 degrees Celsius for 500 hours. In its first round of experiments, Uncaged achieved 85 degrees Celsius for that duration.
The company was able to closely simulate real leather by mimicking its chemical structure. Leather results from tanning an animal hide, which stabilizes its fibrous collagen proteins. The team tested hundreds of different plant ingredients and combinations to see if they could create similar fibril structures. They ultimately developed a way to turn plant proteins into those types of structures.
The material is laid down onto a plant fiber-based cloth backing. Both the cloth base and the plant-based leather material are biodegradable. For many applications, a 0.01 mm layer of bio-based polyurethane is added. This plastic layer allows them to change the appearance and hand feel, making it have more grip or be super smooth.
Uncaged also adds mineral pigments for color and can emboss various textures. It can even add a range of scents using flower extracts. One sample gives off a sweet, floral fragrance. Automotive companies have discussed developing a signature scent exclusive to them, and handbag manufacturers have asked if the material can smell like their signature fragrances. This feature has been more popular than initially imagined.